Angle pin fixing blocks made to your drawing — the DY/PY style that clamps the pin at its root. This page covers the retention side of angle pin mounting: how the pin is held so it cannot rotate, creep out, or work its bore oval. Send a drawing, a sketch with the bore angle and pin size, or a photo of the existing block, and we quote in writing, normally within one business day.

What this block has to stop the pin doing

An angle pin is loaded sideways on every cycle. Three failure modes follow from that, and the fixing block exists to prevent all three:

• Rotation. A pin that turns in its seat wears a spiral into the bore and loses its ground surface. Once it is turning, the bore is finished. Clamping has to grip the pin's full seated diameter, not pinch it at one point.
• Axial creep. A pin that walks out even half a millimetre changes the engagement length — and engagement is what stops the slide over-travelling. Pins creep out, not in, because the reaction on mold-open pushes them that way.
• Fretting at the clamp face. If the clamp is not tight enough to prevent micro-movement but tight enough to load the surface, you get fretting: a red-brown powder at the joint and a bore that grows. Either clamp properly or use a keyed retention feature.

The bore angle has to match the pin, not approximately

The bore in the block and the working angle of the pin must be the same figure. If the block is bored a degree off, the pin seats on a line contact instead of over its full length, and that line is where it will bend. This is the single most common reason a replacement block does not fix the problem it was bought for.

So when you send dimensions, give the bore angle explicitly rather than letting us infer it from the pin — and if you are replacing a block on a mold that has been running, it is worth measuring the pin's actual angle rather than trusting the original drawing.

Hardness: the block should not be as hard as the pin

A through-hardened pin running in a similarly hardened bore galls. Normal practice is a hard pin in a block that is deliberately softer and cheaper to remake, or a hardened block with a replaceable bushed bore. Decide which part you want to replace, and that decision sets the pair.

What to send us

• Block length, width and height
• Angle-pin bore diameter and bore angle
• Mounting-hole, counterbore and thread layout, and centre distances
• Mounting orientation — which face is the datum against the plate
• Angle pin diameter, length and how it is currently retained
• Material, hardness and tolerance; quantity and destination

Replacing one that failed? Tell us how — bore gone oval, pin creeping, block cracked at a bolt hole, or fretting at the joint. Each points at a different fix, and a like-for-like replacement of a block that was never right just repeats the failure.

Documentation and confidentiality

Material certificates, hardness results and dimensional inspection reports are available on request, with scope and cost confirmed in the quotation. Technical files are used to evaluate and fulfill your inquiry or order. They may be shared only with relevant manufacturing, inspection, logistics or service partners as needed. Send only files you are authorized to share. See our Privacy Policy. NDA on request from rfq@privleymold.com.

"DY" and "PY" identify a configuration family, not a dimensional standard. We quote from your dimensions and confirm the controlling ones with you before anything is made.